The following article was written in 2004 and describes the rich culture and unspoilt countryside in the Paphos region of Cyprus.
Secret Cyprus
By Colin Barrowclough.
The key to travelling, as every explorer knows, is trusting in the gods.
I’d chosen to visit Cyprus for its renowned Mediterranean heat; instead, I stumbled into the wettest week for years. Banking into our final approach to Paphos airport, above the island’s western tip, the plane dipped into the meanest electrical storm I’ve ever experienced. Bolts of lightning razored open gunmetal skies, revealing slating rain, and below, foaming brine and crashing waves. With little prospect of basking on the beach, I needed an alternative theme for the week. Culture? Cyprus is so full of ancient history that it’s tough to pop out to a Paphos pub without banging your head on a temple arch. But my mood had become as sullen as the weather. I could no more rejoice in ruins than squeezes UB rays from the stormy skies.
I was consoling myself a coffee when my eye fell on a sporty little jeep across the road. For hire.
Just a 30-minute drive inland, I knew, lay the Paphos Forest, home to some of the best mountain driving in the Mediterranean. In a flash, I had a plan. Renting a car in Cyprus couldn’t be simpler. But traversing the pine-clad ridges of the Paphos Forest is a different matter. The high-altitude terrain is uninhabited and devoid of surfaced roads. The only way in and out is by tortuous mountain tracks.
At times the beauty of the mountain views was breathtaking. Patches of low cloud drifted among forest ridges.
Mulchy odours of damp earth and pine needles willed me to cut the engine. There was no sound except the rain, and not even a faint breeze. When I was still, the world was still. I was alone with awesome nature.
Rushing to beat the falling dusk, I struggled to keep traction on the damp trail. At last, breaching asphalt at the village of Kinousa, I cruised downhill to the phosphorescence of the Mediterranean surf below.
The main town on the western coast of Cyprus is Polis, where the Archontariki tavern serves an excellent roast lamb, accompanied by wines from the next-door monastery.
To the west of town yawn the cliffs of the Akamas Peninsula, in Greek myth, Aphrodite, the goddess of love, chose this spot to emerge from the brine in her scallop shell. The bulk of the peninsula remains unravelled. Old-world villages, many abandoned by Turkish Cypriots in the Seventies, fight a losing battle against encroaching gorse, carob and maquis scrub.
Donkeys are the prime means of transport. It’s so remote that sea turtles come to lay their eggs in the sands off Lara.
Turn south from here on the B7 and it’s an easy cruise along the valley floor to Paphos. Climb on the Akamas ridge above Neo Chorio, however, and the terrain changes abruptly.
The earth, lush in the valley, becomes parched and stony. It’s perfect terrain for guerrilla warfare. In the fifties, Greek Cypriot pro-independence fighters used the gulleys to ambush British Army columns on the Paphos-Polis road.
As I left the boulder-strewn track for the last time, I remembered a eulogy to Cyprus written by Lawrence Durrell in 1957. The country, he wrote, was ‘fertile, full of goddesses and mineral springs; ancient castles and monasteries; fruit and grain and verdant grasslands; priests and gypsies and brigands.’
In a place like that, I thought, who wants to bask on the beach, anyway? I slipped into gear for the final leg to Paphos and knew that the Cypriot gods had been good.
Daily Mail – Travel.
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